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.Thetrail begins in cypress forest, passes through open prairie marsh,and finishes in dense mangrove swamp.Watch out for airboatsroaring around and spoiling things.Halfway Creek and Turner River Loop.This route startsjust behind the ranger station and heads along the shoreline.Itloops through mangroves and returns to Chokoloskee Bay not farfrom where it begins.Most of it passes through a mangrove tun-nel, which is fun but does limit viewing wildlife or anything otherthan dense mangroves with oysters clinging to their roots.Thereare lots of air plants, bromeliads and a few orchids.Portions ofthe trail pass through Big Cypress National Preserve.Shark River Area Paddling TrailsThe 99-mile Wilderness Waterway is an adventurous paddlingtrip that takes at least nine days to paddle, although you canzoom through it in a motorized craft in just one very long day.This is absolutely the very best way to experience theEverglades.The trails are well marked and there are coveredOn Water 283campsites along the route.If you are not a very experienced wil-derness paddler and self-sufficient camper, come with one of theoutfitters listed below.On your own, come well equipped.A hun-dred years ago most travelers who set out to cross the Evergladessimply never returned.Be sure you have a backcountry campingpermit, obtained in person from a visitor s center or ranger sta-tion.Costs are $10 per day, plus $2 per person, per night.Chartsof the area are a must; even though the trail is marked, there areso many twists, turns, and alternate channels that it is quite pos-sible to get lost.There are many places where low overhangingtrees make passage impossible for anything other than a canoe,kayak or alligator.AUTHOR TIDBIT: Large parts of the waterwaypass through open water (Whitewater Bay),where stiff winds can make paddling strenuous.Mosquitoes, heat and intense sun make the tripextremely challenging during summer months.The Waterway starts out near Everglades City and ends up nearFlamingo.Outfitters arrange for drop-off and pick-up at eitherend.This is a demanding but very rewarding expedition.OUTFITTERSKayaks rent from $35 per day.Boat tours start at $25.Florida Bay Outfitters, MM 104, Key Largo, 305-451-3018, www.KayakFloridaKeys.com, offersthree-hour kayak tours and rentals deliver you to theback side of the park from their Key Largo base.Theycan also arrange guided multi-day trips through some ofthe park s less-traveled areas.Everglades National Park Boat Tours, EvergladesCity, 941-695-2591.Majestic Everglades Excursions, Everglades City,941-695-2777.Everglades National Park284 Where to StayIn the AirViews of Florida Bay and the Ten Thousand Islands areaare a spectacular photo opportunity.OUTFITTERSWings 10,000 Islands Aero-Tours, Everglades Air-port, Route 29, Everglades City, 239-695-3296.Starting at $75, Wings takes visitors on low-flying tripsover the Ten Thousand Islands area and Florida Bay.Where to StayRatings & PricesAll prices are for two people staying in a double roomduring high season.Taxes and meals are not includedunless so mentioned.Hotels and lodges marked AuthorPicks are my personal favorites, offering top-quality lodging andservices but, more importantly, something of particular interestor charm.ACCOMMODATIONS PRICE CHART$.Under $100$$.$100-200$$$.$200-300$$$$.Over $300Hotels & ResortsThe only hotel actually inside the park is the FlamingoHOTELLodge on Florida Bay at the end of the long road fromHomestead.It is an older hotel, but is very convenientlylocated for enjoying the bottom end of the park on Florida Bay.Several trails start within a short walking distance of the lodgeand a variety of backcountry and Florida Bay fishing and wildlifeHotels & Resorts 285tours leave from the marina next door.There is a large camp-ground near the lodge.Plenty of hotels can be found just outside the park entrance inHomestead and there are a few near the west end of the park inand around Chokoloskee.Staying in Homestead allows you to ex-plore the eastern end of the park without having to drive too far.Inside the ParkFlamingo Lodge, Marina & Outpost Resort, 941-695-3101, 800-600-3813, fax 941-695-3921, www.flamingolodge.com,$$, is in need of some tender loving care.It is, however, clean andcomes with working air-conditioning and a pool.The staff isfriendly and pets are allowed.Accommodations include regularmotel-style rooms as well as cottages, and some units havekitchen facilities.All the rooms are located right on the bay withhandy access to park facilities and services.Best Western Gateway to the Keys, 411 S Krome Avenue,305 246-5100, $$.This is the last motel before you hit beforethe long road going through the swamp to the Keys.It is a typicalBest Western, with clean rooms, coffee makers, iron and ironingboard and the usual free breakfast offered in the lobby eachmorning.Local calls are free.No pets.Everglades Int l Hostel, Inc., 20 SW 2nd Avenue, Florida City,305-248-1122, $.The hostel offers dormitories and privaterooms.They also offer bike and canoe rentals.Dorm beds start at$13.Grove Inn Country Guest House, 22540 S.W.177 Avenue,Redlands, 305-247-6572, 877-247-6572, www.groveinn.com,$$.Pet-friendly Grove Inn is a B&B in a lovely setting nearHomestead.The location is handy to Everglades National Parkand the Upper Keys.It s quiet and in the same neighborhood asthe nation s most successful orchid and tropical plant nurseries,several of which are open to the public.Breakfasts are includedin the price and feature local fruits and produce from the ownersgarden.Hampton Inn, 124 E Palm Drive, Florida City, 305-247-8833,800-426-7866, fax 305-247-6456, www.hamptoninnfloridacity.com, FCMIA@hcifl.com, $$.Here you get the usual Hamptonquality and cleanliness with T-1 Internet access in all rooms.It sEverglades National Park286 Where to Staylocated at the very end of the Florida Turnpike and is convenientto Everglades National Park, Biscayne Bay and Key Largo.Redland Hotel, 5 South Flagler Avenue, Homestead, 305246-1904, 800-595-190, www.redlandhotel.com.Definitely not achain-style hotel, the Redland has plenty of atmosphere andstyle.Rex & Katy Oleson and Jerry & Nancy Gust are the propri-etors.Built in 1904, the historic Redland Hotel was Homestead sfirst hotel, first mercantile store, first US Post Office, first libraryand first boarding house.This is an interesting alternative to thechain motels that line US 1 near the entrance to the park.Barron River Resort, Everglades City, 239-695-3591, 800-535-4961, fax 239-695-3331, suzgrif@evergladespark.com, www.evergladespark.com, $$.Barron River is owned by brothers Donand Larry Harmon.It offers basic motel-style rooms.Pets are al-lowed for an extra charge of $10 per night for each.Captain s Table Hotel, Everglades City, 941-695-4211,800-741-6430, fax 941-695-2633, www.capttable.com, $$.Cap-tain s has basic hotel rooms, junior suites and villas at a varietyof price ranges.There s a restaurant and conference facilities, aswell as a boat ramp and slips.Everglades City Motel, Everglades City, 239-695-4224,800-695-8353, fax 239-695-2557, evergcitymotes@aol.com, $-$$.The motel rooms here are basic, but clean and air-conditioned.Everglades Rod and Gun Resort Lodge, P.O.Box 190,Everglades City, 941-695-2101, $$
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